Full write up to come, but to sum it up. 6 days in Peniche, 3 nights in Porto, 2 in Santiago, Supertubos, empty beach breaks, lucky reefs, 5 germans, 1 kiwi, 2 fins, lost keys, Una guapa Portuguesa, hair in the sheets and Galatian wind.
A few more tapes have been logged and secured in the vaults thanks to MLK so we’ve prepared some more frames as an addendum to our mainland Mex article that took place back in September. We’ve still got one more etc up our sleeve with some of the more high profile pics from that journey to come shortly along with a final holiday wrap up feature. Until then enjoy the frames and batten down the hatches as El Nino is upon us. Thanks again to Louie for toughing it out behind the lens on the Deck during the injury! Also, keep your eyes peeled for a new Rookies collab tee in the coming weeks from Aaron at Lore.
We had so much extra media from our 2 weeks in the 805 that we had to break it up into 2 parts. Here’s Part I which is all the extra framegrabs from our extended vacation. Click pic for full size. Part II is due next with a mixed bag of photos from varying sources.
As we wrap up December and set our sights on January, the North Shore continues to pump! Although it hasn’t been all-time this year the amount of swell has been abundant and with the consistent waves it seems the crowd has been thinned out a bit! I think the struggling economy is also to blame for the lack of people this season as well. Speaking of crowds, I was able to watch the Eddie Aikau go down which was pretty gangster! Traffic was possibly the worst that I have ever seen on the North Shore. Supposedly thirty thousand people came to watch the spectacle unfold! I had to take the two days of the swell off from work cuz the traffic was so Nutzah! I checked the Shorey like twenty times during those days and there was like a two or three hour window where it was firing but the contest was on so no go!
Giraffe and Hoover had a nice week long campaign during Thanksgiving. They were the first of the Pismo folk to make a campaign this season. Chris had a sick camera and Ryan was on video support so we were able to get some production done during their visit! The month of November was a little bit weird so no all-time Pipe when the crew was here but good Rockies!!!! I’ll post a few pics and framies that they captured during their campaign!
The IBA website has some info posted on the Pipe event! Looks like Miller Lite is sponsoring it, so I’m hoping that there are loads of free booz!!! Props to Bitzer for lining that shit up! I’ve been resting up the last week due to an unfortunate Pipe facial. It had the potential to be a career maker or career breaker! I free fell a good twenty feet into the flats and tried to penetrate through the back of the wave. Unfortunately the thing grabbed a hold of me and sucked me over real good! Hit the bottom instantly and while I was pinned on the bottom a large surge of white water ripped my arm back behind my head. I think I strained a muscle or ligament but all that I know is the shit hurt so bad! Gimped it to the beach and had to retire my campaign early!!! I think it is somewhat minor and I should be back in the water in a few weeks. I’ll post a shot of that wipeout along with some other random Pipe shots!
That about wraps things up for the first half of the 09/10 season. The swells are lining up for January and if the winds and weather cooperate, we could be in store for some high quality action for the New Year! I’m going to try to bust some interviews for the site in my next update! A possible Murph and Skipp short question interview is in the making! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Everybody try to stay alive and out of jail! Aloha Murder!