Life of Lou – Part I


When he felt his back go pop, Louie shrugged it off as a consequence of his job in the ever-demanding iron working industry. Surely the bumps and bruises came with the territory. But this was neither bump nor bruise. And when his back continued to affect his surfing and his livelihood earlier this year, a doctor’s visit revealed an emergency back surgery was necessary. Couple the surgery with a probationary sentence and a meager disability check and some would have given up the boog altogether given his troublesome position. But instead Louie made it his prime motivator for a full recovery.

When the first pics surfaced from Louie behind the lens a few weeks later you knew the passion was still there. And it sure didn’t take long for the kid from Grover City to make it out in the water himself in limited action. Stories continued to arise throughout summer from the Pismo crew about Louie’s steady progression and reincarnation into his old recklessly controlled surfing form.

Well, I got to see it in person a few weeks back while visiting the 805. The local dropknee crew was in full effect with most everyone out milking the more predictable and lazy outside peaks at the local beachie. Not Lou though. He was back in the shorey where he belonged, giving it go after go with that all too familiar playful grin. He hadn’t skipped a beat.

Along the way Louie kept good documentation of his past year. Fishing, camping, lurking, and photography kept him busy during recovery down times. His luck would finally change when he was cleared to surf. Happening upon an abandoned GoPro in the Oceano dunes meant he could now capture some of the local action in motion. Below are his two first edits from the new rig. We’ll show some of his surfing photos in the next update.