Stayed in Kuta last night and tonight, but tomorrow I’m heading to Padang to stay for a few days. Kuta is a pretty crazy tourist town with all kinds of crazy Euros and Ozzies running around. I ran into some full on shaka bra surfers from the Bay Area (thanks to my A’s hat) and got some solid buzz-on at a bar watching this sick cover band who busted out the best rendition of “Sweet Child of Mine” I’ve ever witnessed.
Yesterday I got in from the airport late and just surfed at Kuta Beach which is pretty lame, but today I surfed Padang for the first time. It was inconsistent but really fun on the sets and luckily not very crowded. It was only like head high so only the end bowl was really working, so the waves were short but really hollow and shallow. The waves should be picking up over the next few days so I should get some solid Padang before I go to G-Land.
Meals are only like $1-3 and hotel rooms are only like $5-8 bucks, but getting around is kinda expensive because you have to get a cab from Kuta to Padang which is like $10 each way (it’s like a half hour away). The other option is to rent a scooter (only like $3 a day) but everyone drives completely insane so I’m pretty over that. Anyway, I’ll be staying out at Padang after tomorrow so I won’t have to worry about driving anymore. The food is good and the local people here are all friendly and super chill.
Today was pretty sick, double session at DOH Padang with Rizal Tanjung, some other Ozzie/Bali/Euro pros I don’t know, and Tim Jones getting Jonesy on the inside. The wave is really fast and long and kinda hard to make through both sections unless you get a solid set wave. I got a bunch of scraps, a couple solid ones, and one good long barrel full ASA style that made my trip so far. The bombs were pretty nuts, I was sketching. The local surfers here definitely own it.
I’m glad I got the hell out of Kuta , I’m staying at this kinda ghetto place right next to Padang called Padang Sari. Super friendly people, $5/night, cheap food, and right across the street from one of the best waves in the world… can’t ask for much more. I’m gonna surf here for the rest of the swell then I’m going to G-Land later in the week. I guess G-Land is always bigger than anywhere else so it should be solid with another swell coming in at the end of the week.
Got some super fun and uncrowded Padang over the last few days as the swell dropped. Right before dark at low tide has been the call, with only a few guys out getting pitted over the end bowl. I got some fun overhead drainers with only a couple other Ozzie boogies out last night, it was definitely the most rewarding session I’ve had so far. There were tons of waves for everyone, the lighting was insane, and the vibe in the water was really chill.
Afterwards I cruised over to Paxcou’s house for a little dinner party with all his French friends who are in town visiting. I took down some beers and grubbed pasta while all these nice folks did their best to speak English for me. Paxcou has a sick modern house up in the hills only 15 minutes from Padang and is definitely living the dream. After dinner he showed us some insane footy of Ben Player owning Padang on that big swell that hit a few months ago. After watching it I definitely think Ben could be considered the best in the world right now, especially with the way he’s been owning the comps lately.
Got G-Land really sick but pretty damn crowded. Still got some sick ones with old school Ozzie Riptide rippers Nick Gibbs, Jason Spence, and some DKer named Phil who got the wave of the trip.
Took a friggin’ headshot to the reef and cut my face to shit, it looked intense for a day or two but the swelling has subsided now and the camel face has returned. Low tide there is sketchy as hell with lots of waves ending on near dry reef. There was a major standup paddle-battle at Moneytrees but the boogies mostly stuck to the inside section which was smaller but had some smokers coming through. I got a ton of empty shots that I’ll send ya when I got back and one kinda shitty shot of me from some creepy dude shooting on a boat.