Well folks, not much has changed since Statom’s departure! Strong NE winds continue to dominate the weather pattern with no NW swell in the water to speak of. Although the strong trade winds and wind swell is quite annoying, the waves are still in abundance at the right spots! I’ve had a couple sick sessions at Log Cabins with no more than two or three guys out. I’ll give you a little break down of the action!
The first day I surfed out there was a solid 6-8 foot with an occasional wash through set. I had to paddle out at Keiki pretty much because the paddle was next level! I only scrapped two waves; the first was cat shit but the second one was a drainer. It barreled so hard almost like a little Pipe bowl! My buddy Tyler had his video camera and was able to get the wave. Once we get a firewire I’ll post some frames of it! I heard from one of my friends that GT made an appearance after I went in. Tamega’s all about big sketchy waves, he lives for that shit!
Day two was a bit smaller but much cleaner, 4-6 foot draining with three guys out. Right as I walked up the trail I saw no other than GT pull into a nugget! I surfed for a few hours and was able to scrap a handful of fun waves! Anna was posted up on the beach providing the photo support, so check out a couple of her top notch pics that I posted below!
As The NE winds and NNE swell continue to dominate the swell and wind pattern, relief is lurking on the horizon! Caldwell’s claiming a solid 6-8 foot swell for the beginning of this week. Statom was able to accumulate a grip of footy as well as pics during his two-week campaign on the Rock that will be leaking their way through the site over the next few months so stay tuned for the action.
A couple last words: congrats to Hardy for the W. I think out of any Australian who hasn’t won Pipe, he was the most worthy! Go Hardballs! Word on the street is that Kellen has invested some serious cash on a super high tech next level guru style video camera! We plan on spending a few months in Mainland this summer so expect some weirdness to unfold! That’s a wrap folks, much more to come!!!!