North Shore 2007/2008

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March 22nd, 2008
As we head into the end of March the decent late season that was unfolding has come to a halt. The past four or five days have been flat. This could be an indicator that Winter is over. There could be a couple little pulses next month but it’s looking like it will be pretty slow. You can actually tell that a lot of people have left the North Shore in the past two weeks which is nice to see, especially after the most crowded Winter ever had just taken place. On a sad note: A bodyboarder was killed at Pipe about a week ago. I think it was a local guy, kind of underground. I don’t know the exact details but I heard he got caught by the lip! That’s the thing about Pipe that is so gnarly, it will only be six feet and still claim your life. I’ve had a four or five footer land on me and drive me straight to the bottom, fins ripped off, leash completely stretched – I meean Fuck! Pipe constantly has a way of reminding you that it will turn your colon inside out. I’m going to do a recap write up on the 2007/2008 season. Should be up in a few days!

Mahalo, Murdock

March 8th, 2008
Yes I know I have been lagging hard on the updates! The winter season is coming to an end but the waves are still pumping. There has been clean overhead waves for the last couple of weeks with an occasional bigger swell hitting! I was lucky enough to get a visit from some Pismo scum in February. Well actually Statom is far from scum but Kellen and Roy define the word scum. Had some good times with the Pismo posse! I’m sure you heard about my little run in with Johnny Law which was minor but a major buzz kill. Thanks to Statom and caby driver Lindsey my time in jail was limited to about ten hours! I haven’t been surfing too much due to an annoying knee injury that just won’t seem to get better. I came up on a automobile – 96 Toyota Corolla so that’s a big step up for North Shore life. Thing is sick, I bought it off some old Asian dude who kept it in mint condition! I’ll try to keep the updates coming a bit more often so keep checking the site. Statom is working on a little North Shore edit that will be up shortly so keep your eyes peeled! Mahalo. “Ho Lanis.” “Bodyboarder get out of the water.”

Mahalo, Murdock

January 30th, 2008
Already a month into the new year and the North Shore continues to have a slow winter. There has been a few days but not the consistentsy that you come to expect during winter time on the North Shore. The best day of the season went down at Pipe a few weeks ago but it has been sleeping since then. Off the Wall has had a couple days of fun ramps and a few barrels but nothing to write home about. The Monster Pipe Contest is running as we speak in two foot crap so hopefully they can get that shit over with while it’s shitty! The bodyboarding contest is approaching in a few weeks and lets keep our fingers crossed that the waves will come. Other than that typical North Shore life has been in full swing. Lurking, training, and eating have consumed the waveless days with the occasional perv sesh from my porch. Oh ya congrats to my Pismo dkers who kept their belt in the Seaside Best in the West dk contest, hope all those guys recieved some ATP for their hard work! Let’s keep are fingers crossed that the Pipe contest will be bombing!

Mahalo, Murdock

January 3rd, 2008
The New Year has come and the wave shortage on the North Shore continues. People have been claiming the slowest winter in twenty years. I have surfed Pipe like six times and that has been over the last two months. Fuck, all that can be hoped for is an epic late season. The only positive thing about the lack of waves is the fact that everyone has been leaving and if the waves ever do get good the crowd should be mellow. Aside from the small waves there is not too much going on except for an exceptionally high lurk status. Oh ya, Tyler Wiemann is in town and hopefully I have a chance to pound some booze with him or surf. My roommate just got a camera the other day so hopefully on the next post there will be some photos of something! Happy New Year and hopefully everyone back home survived the New Years festivities!

Mahalo, Murdock

December 21st, 2007
The North Shore has been a bit slow for the last week. A little unusual for this time of the year to see flat surf for so long. The Pipe Masters has been running in 2-3 foot crap and the forecast is predicting more crap for the week to come. Passing time on the North Shore when it’s flat can be a hard thing to do. Shells and Bells are always an option when it’s flat but even that can get a bit old. Drinking mass amounts of Steinlager is about the only thing that doesn’t get old but can be hard on the pocket book. I received a brand new Toobs board that I’m dying to test out but there are no waves to do it with. My roommate is getting a sick camera for Christmas so hopefully I can get some pictures up to run with these updates. The only thing worthy to really talk about is Occy’s singing/dancing skills at the Lifeguard Party – pretty all time. Hopefully the next update will involve stories of Pipe barrels and some photos to back it up!

Mahalo, Murdock

December 2nd, 2007
December time is in full bloom with back to back swells pounding the North Shore! The last week in November had some consistent swell accompanied by some quality weather. I was lucky enough to get a two day visit by long time DK charger Willie Richerson. I guess he hooked up a job at the airport so he can score tickets for super cheap. Willie showed up at a perfect time for the swell and weather. We scored some fun waves at a couple different spots. Just getting to watch Pipe when its good is worth coming to the North Shore, but getting to surf it is all-time. Long surf seshes were followed by a healthy dosage of Stan and Stienlager. It was sick to have one of my hommies from the 805 to share my daily surf/lurk seshes. Willie managed to score a rental car so we had some trany to get around. My normal means of transportation consist of my feet and a vert dog skate board that is my roommates’. It was nice to be able to make some vulgar Pismo comments and have them fully appreciated. I’m sure I will be seeing some more of Willie now that he has the hookup on tickets!

The weather is going to be bad for the next week which means alot more lurking and less surfing, maybe time to booze it up a bit! There’s a sick new skate park right behind Rock Piles that I might have to go check, do some slashes and maybe brake my neck! When the waves are shitty the time slows down but you just have to keep yourself busy. A lot of people make it seem like all there is to do on the North Shore is surf but there are many other activities that you can do when living somewhere with warm clear water. Still in shock over all the chicks lurking the beaches, bike trail and grocery store. I went to Haleiwa a few nights ago to hit the bar and there were so many breezys from all over the place. Hopefully the weather will calm down at the end of the week and let the trades return. I had a Jeremy Wright sighting, actually multiple sightings so that pretty much made my winter already! More to come next week and hopefully get some photos up!

Mahalo, Murdock

November 16th, 2007
I’m currently residing on the North Shore of Oahu now. Coming from the ghetto of Grover to the mecca of bodyboarding and surfing is overwhelming. I have an upstairs loft that I call home that overlooks Backyards and Sunset. I have wanted to live in Hawaii ever since I started laying on a boogie and after many years of struggling with Cali’s harsh laws, inconsistent surf, and abundant supply of slammies and slammers, I’ve broke away to one of the sickest places on the planet.

Its been a real slow November as far as swell and the only thing keeping all the travelers sane is the abundant supply of nasties flocking the beach daily. I’m telling you there is so much ass on the North Shore it’s disturbing! The Banzaii hasn’t shown its true colors yet but I’m staying optimistic knowing that it is inevitable for it to get big. I’ve always been confined to a few mainstream spots every year I have come to Hawaii but lately I have been surfing a bunch of different spots that are relatively uncrowded. I’m going to make it a priority to invest in some camera gear so eventually I can flood the site with photos and document the North Shore Winter for everybody’s viewing enjoyment.

The Triple Crown of surfing is in full effect right now, kind of a scene but that’s part of Hawaii. Impressive to watch some of the pro stand-ups rip the world’s most famous waves. I watched 18-year-old Mason Ho put on a show at the Excel Sunset Pro, dominating surfers twice his age. None of the bodyboarders have really showed up yet which is weird for me to see the lineup boogie free. I’ve had a couple Hubb sightings at Off the Wall ripping the shit out of every wave no matter how big it is. Stay tuned to the Rookies site for many more North Shore updates to come including some pics to scope.

Mahalo, Murdock

Indonesia 2007: Camel

By Camel

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August 4
Stayed in Kuta last night and tonight, but tomorrow I’m heading to Padang to stay for a few days. Kuta is a pretty crazy tourist town with all kinds of crazy Euros and Ozzies running around. I ran into some full on shaka bra surfers from the Bay Area (thanks to my A’s hat) and got some solid buzz-on at a bar watching this sick cover band who busted out the best rendition of “Sweet Child of Mine” I’ve ever witnessed.

Yesterday I got in from the airport late and just surfed at Kuta Beach which is pretty lame, but today I surfed Padang for the first time. It was inconsistent but really fun on the sets and luckily not very crowded. It was only like head high so only the end bowl was really working, so the waves were short but really hollow and shallow. The waves should be picking up over the next few days so I should get some solid Padang before I go to G-Land.

Meals are only like $1-3 and hotel rooms are only like $5-8 bucks, but getting around is kinda expensive because you have to get a cab from Kuta to Padang which is like $10 each way (it’s like a half hour away). The other option is to rent a scooter (only like $3 a day) but everyone drives completely insane so I’m pretty over that. Anyway, I’ll be staying out at Padang after tomorrow so I won’t have to worry about driving anymore. The food is good and the local people here are all friendly and super chill.

August 7
padang_lineup03.jpgToday was pretty sick, double session at DOH Padang with Rizal Tanjung, some other Ozzie/Bali/Euro pros I don’t know, and Tim Jones getting Jonesy on the inside. The wave is really fast and long and kinda hard to make through both sections unless you get a solid set wave. I got a bunch of scraps, a couple solid ones, and one good long barrel full ASA style that made my trip so far. The bombs were pretty nuts, I was sketching. The local surfers here definitely own it.

padang_lineup06.jpgI’m glad I got the hell out of Kuta , I’m staying at this kinda ghetto place right next to Padang called Padang Sari. Super friendly people, $5/night, cheap food, and right across the street from one of the best waves in the world… can’t ask for much more. I’m gonna surf here for the rest of the swell then I’m going to G-Land later in the week. I guess G-Land is always bigger than anywhere else so it should be solid with another swell coming in at the end of the week.

August 10
padang_lineup04.jpgGot some super fun and uncrowded Padang over the last few days as the swell dropped. Right before dark at low tide has been the call, with only a few guys out getting pitted over the end bowl. I got some fun overhead drainers with only a couple other Ozzie boogies out last night, it was definitely the most rewarding session I’ve had so far. There were tons of waves for everyone, the lighting was insane, and the vibe in the water was really chill.

paxcou_family.jpgAfterwards I cruised over to Paxcou’s house for a little dinner party with all his French friends who are in town visiting. I took down some beers and grubbed pasta while all these nice folks did their best to speak English for me. Paxcou has a sick modern house up in the hills only 15 minutes from Padang and is definitely living the dream. After dinner he showed us some insane footy of Ben Player owning Padang on that big swell that hit a few months ago. After watching it I definitely think Ben could be considered the best in the world right now, especially with the way he’s been owning the comps lately.

August 17
gland_crew.jpgSupposed to be coming home tomorrow but there’s a giant friggin’ super-typhoon heading for Taipei (where my layover is) so who knows when I’ll get back.

Got G-Land really sick but pretty damn crowded. Still got some sick ones with old school Ozzie Riptide rippers Nick Gibbs, Jason Spence, and some DKer named Phil who got the wave of the trip.

gland_face.jpgTook a friggin’ headshot to the reef and cut my face to shit, it looked intense for a day or two but the swelling has subsided now and the camel face has returned. Low tide there is sketchy as hell with lots of waves ending on near dry reef. There was a major standup paddle-battle at Moneytrees but the boogies mostly stuck to the inside section which was smaller but had some smokers coming through. I got a ton of empty shots that I’ll send ya when I got back and one kinda shitty shot of me from some creepy dude shooting on a boat.

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Mexico 2007: Murdock

By James Murdock

adam-airrevo.JPEGTequilla, chica blanca, bammer/bash, hulk juice and the occasional tube: Mexico’s got it all and a lot more. Of course the best perk about Mexico is all these great things are cheap as fuck! The US dollar is strong which is true for most other outsiders: ET’s, AF’s, and dirty Frenchmen. If you haven’t embarked past Baja you’re missing out on the real Mexico. With the rapid growth that is going on in this popular wave-rich land of Puerto and other beach towns up and down the coast, tourists will flock and with them they will bring the tourist based prices. This would be my fifth year of lurking mainland and in that short period the growth and development has been intense! Even if you don’t make it to Puerto, there are so many other insane spots south of Baja all the way down to the very most southern regions of Mexico!

cale-snap.JPEGThe crew consisted of Adam (BGA), Sandy (Sandy Sphincter), Zach (Sloth), Kellen (Killer), Cale (still nickname free), myself (Murder), and last and certainly not least Chad Jackson (El Jefe). Everybody crashed at my house the night before departing with little to no sleep happening due to the high anticipation of this Mexico mission that lay ahead of us. Killer and myself received some of the most appalling mullets known to man courtesy of my girlfriend. The crew was pushing for a night of no sleep to guarantee coma time on the plane even though we have our sleep-assisting barbiturates to help us! The drive down to LA was brutal. I was running on no sleep and was falling asleep every few miles. We made it to the airport barely avoiding multiple close calls on the 405. Everybody made their flight. I only mention this cause in many prior situations somebody has got a little too fucked up and was either not allowed on the plane or just couldn’t navigate there way through a busy airport! Things were rolling smoothly – that is until I revealed my barbiturate stash to Adam and Zach. Pills were getting popped like kernels in a popcorn machine! The plane flight was going good until I started buying a bunch of booze. One thing led to another and to make a long story short I got too fucked up and left my wallet on the plane. I stumbled through customs and ended up leaving my passport at the customs desk. Fortunately that got recovered but I can’t say the same about my wallet. That’s right, that motherfucker was long gone. It was a shitty feeling losing your wallet before you even step foot on Mexican soil. I had a semi nervous breakdown for a short period of time but with the help from the crew, and especially BGA who temporally would be funding my trip shit, worked out and we were headed to the remote beach town inside the state of Colima. We made it to the hotel in the late afternoon and were able to check waves, pound some Corona Familiars and lace the bam sack all before sunset! The little hotel that was to be our home for the next few weeks was pretty legit. I meeeaaaan fuuuuck it had AC and some mattresses that were like big bags of potatoes! Oh ya there were only two beds and five of us so Sphincter had to post it on the ground and build a mattress out of bodyboards, which I know from experience is shitty for a makeshift mattress. Everyone was pretty tired from the day of traveling making for an early night pass out. Morning time came and the waves where going off! Perfect overhead peeks with no one out! It’s always nice to get some barrels the first day you get somewhere, it makes you think that it’s going to be a good trip! It felt good to get a warm water barrel and not have a bulky wetsuit rubbing on your sack.

mullets.JPEGThe next couple of days were carbon copies of the first day in and out of the water. Our daily routine consisted of a long morning sesh followed by a huge snack and after that it would be lurk time until evening snack time came. The routine soon came to an end with the arrival of Chad Jackson, an underground 805 standup who is the definition of hard core. He owns a couple of the heavy reef breaks back home and can get barreled as deep as bodyboarders. His mullet is the inspiration behind Kellen’s and my own creations. Jackson showed up right on schedule and was super amped to see the boogie crew who he would now be staying with for the next 3 weeks. I think it’s fucking sick that a surfer who rips as hard as Chad is down to travel with six other bodyboarders. The night of his arrival we got extra bammed and we saw Jackson in full effect. The power at our hotel went out so we were blasting a battery charged cassette player and burning candles on our deck. Occasionally our deck would be lit up by a massive bolt of lightning. Sleeping was a bit difficult due to the loud thunder and with no power comes no AC!! We had a pretty late night with Jackson keeping us entertained by watching him construct a home made bong with a custom bowl piece made out of a carrot!

pas-nugget.JPEGI’m a bit of an insomniac so the next morning I was up before sunrise and could make out some vague images of spitting barrels. I woke the posse up and informed them there could be potential out there. Jackson was the first person on it jonesing for his first warm water barrel. It turns out that it was barely overhead on the sets but super peaky and hollow. I think everyone scored a sick barrel this day especially Chad! It seemed every time I glanced down the beach Jackson was pulling into a sick one. I must have seen him get a dozen barrels all that he would blast out of at the very last second!

murdock-air.JPEGFor the next week we surfed our brains out and took advantage of the warm water and the lack of people in the line up. The mellow crowd was a big motivator to surf as much as possible. Evening sessions were a rare thing but we managed to squeeze a couple in. One evening sesh is embedded in my head, not because of the waves but a massive squall that came down when BGA, Sphincter, and myself were surfing. The bolt of lightning and the thunder blast that we endured was fucking nuts. Everybody who was watching us surf was claiming that the bolt of lightning was so close that it temporarily blinded them. The thunder was so loud and so close that I felt a burst of energy when I was in the water. Adam was freaking out. After the bolt struck, Adam and I opened our eyes and all we could see was white light. We caught the first wave in and scrambled for shelter in fear that we could have gotten deep fried. I’ve been through a lot of gnarly thunder and lightning storms but this one topped them all. The power was out for the rest of the day and everybody sat on the deck in awe watching it rain for hours straight!

kellen-cockhead.JPEGWe met these boogies from Mazatlan who were staying in tents on the beach: no AC, no mattress, hard core. These kids were claiming that there was a couple solid clubs in the city of Colima that are filled with Latinos who love dirty Americans! They were claiming that Friday nights go richter. The anticipation was at an all time high when Friday finally came around. The groms had been psyching us out for the last week about this Colima mission. Earlier that day everyone cruised to town and went to El Cine Grande, stocking up on snacks but more importantly tequila. The store we went to was actually owned by Wally World which made the prices proper. The whole right hand side of the booze aisle was stalked to the roof with every kind of tequila you could imagine. The finest bottle of tequila known to man was still under twenty-five dollars! Everybody invested some cash in a bottle. We caught the bus back to home base; eager to show the Mazatlan kids our purchases. We really wanted to try and keep the bottles corked till it got dark out but that just didn’t end up happening. Dark lurked on the horizon, and the second bottle of tequila was just about tapped. The Mazatlan kids didn’t want anything to do with the tequila pugging that was going down. After some major American peer pressure a couple of them stepped up and took some shots but our crew was definitely handling the bottles. The transportation factor was ridiculous, twenty people and one Suburban. The American/Mexican caravan was critical, I’m sure we were pushing the payload capabilities of the Suburban. Lucky for us that everybody was skinny and there weren’t any fatties piled up for the sake of gas mileage and the suspension on the ‘burb. I think the fact that a bottle of tequila was being passed around kept everybody amped and ready to take over wherever the fuck we were about to go. It turns out that Olympus, a double decker Latino club that was straight up popping, would be are stomping grounds for the evening. I don’t really know how to describe what happened next, I guess you could say our crew invaded the discoteque like maggots invading a rotten corpse! At this point my memory starts shutting down so I had to ask around to figure out some minor details. Sloth found some thicky that he really thought he could take down; Adam didn’t waist any time and was swallowing faces with multiple latino ladies; Sandy I believe was involved in a face swallow regardless of the high chap factor; Jackson, Kellen and myself felt obligated to take over the dance floor which looked like a giant block of ice that was lit up like a red carpet. The dance moves that were thrown down are pretty much indescribable. Jackson’s intensity was being felt through the entire club. Now don’t forget that we are rocking the three most shocking mullets in Mexico and possibly worldwide. The Mazatlan kids actually stayed clear of us, I’m pretty sure that they were blown away by our display in Olympus! After a few hours the place was going richter! I had to evacuate cuz I was too drunk to be around people. I hit the streets of Colima, not to sure where or what the fuck I was doing. I walked for a long time trying to find my way back to the club. Of course there was no way my drunk ass was going to find my way back. I realized this after hours of stomping around the streets of Colima. Fortunately I managed to stumble into a cab. It was so late that Olympus had to be shutting down so I had no choice but to tell this guy to take me back to the our hotel which was a good hour and a half away. The cabby had to shake the hell out of me to wake me up. I dug through my pockets to find some cash so I could pay the guy, struggling to understand his Spanish subtotal for the cab fair. I realized I had 100 pesos to my name, which is like 10 American dollars. I threw out a slurred and distorted “uno momento” and hit the beach sprinting the opposite way of the hotel. I thought that I lost the guy and was home free. Safe and sound back in my hotel room I passed out thinking I scored the cheapest cab ride in Mexico. The rest of the crew came barging in a few hours later and was tripping out on how I got home. In the morning I told the Mazatlan kids about the cab stiffing and they claimed that it was at least a fifty-dollar cab ride! My buddy Flaco was claiming the guy might try to hunt me down and I laughed thinking that there was no way they could have seen where I went. Later that afternoon I was in my room lying down when I heard a knock on the door. I opened the door and although I could barely remember anything from last night I recognized the cabby who was now standing at my door with a pissed off look on his face. I told him I was sorry and forked up forty bucks and hooked him up with an extra five spot for the troubles I caused him. That’s what I get for trying to stiff a Mexican taxi driver, I wouldn’t recommend trying it because they will find you!

unknown-revo.JPEGThe next morning everybody was up somewhat early considering the booze consumption was at an all time high last night. It was pretty much the same story as the last week: head high, offshore, super peaky and a non-existent crowd. I think by the end of our stay in this desolate little beach town I kind of took the waves for granted. I was hoping for some solid double overhead bombs but we never saw anything bigger than a couple feet overhead. I know once I’m back in California seeing a warm water a-frame would make me shit myself! Our two week stay was coming to an end and everybody was getting psyched for the 25 plus hour bus ride that will take us south to our second destination: Puerto Escondido!

adam-nugget.JPEGEdgar who owns the little hotel that we stayed in was nice enough to give us a ride to the bus station where we realized that our bus came at eight at night not eight in the morning! After lurking hard at the bus station for a few hours we loaded up on a bus that was heading south to the city of Acapulco. From there we could catch a bus directly to Puerto Escondido. The bus ride rolled by a lot smoother than we thought it would. Early on we stopped to pick some people up at a station when I noticed a little pharmacia/liquor store out of the corner of my eye. I ran off the bus, which was leaving in a few minutes, and power sprinted down the street into the door of one of the most scrapper pharmacies that I’d ever seen. The lady who was running the show saw my “eager I want to spend money” look and asked me politely if she could help. “Necesito valiums,” I asked her and with no hesitation she pulled out a ten pack of ten-milly valleys. My eyes lit up like I just saw my first pair of titty’s. I bought two ten packs for a dollar a pill, which in the states is a real good deal. I gave her a “muchos gracias” and sprinted for the bus that was backing up about to leave me. Safely on the bus I walked to the back and everyone could tell I was really pumped. I passed the valiums out like candy on Halloween! The rest of the ride was a blur. Everyone received their longest, most quality night of sleep on that bus. I don’t usually promote the abuse of barbiturates, but on a bus ride or plane ride they’re mandatory.

sandy-tube.JPEGOur crew was about to infect Puerto Escondido like a neglected vaginal sore! We had made the journey and were now safe and sound in the five star residences known as Acuario! Within a few hours I ran into Jose who is the guy to know and my favorite Oaxacan citizen. He’s hooked me up every year that I come to Puerto. I keep him stalked up on clothing and other boogie gear and he provides me with some essential goods that are mandatory to have in Puerto. Everybody was stoked to be settled in, bammered out and sipping on a cold familiar. The only thing that was out of place was the tiny baby waves that were rolling in to Zicatela. 2-3 foot on the sets! As bummed as we all were to see the baby waves we knew that small waves would give us an excuse to start hitting the booze. The price for alcohol was critical, especially with our consumption level being very high: Familiars for two bucks and a fine bottle of El Jimador for no more then ten bucks. With prices like that it should be illegal not to drink at least one bottle of tequila every night. The long term forecast was claiming the waves would be the same size for a solid week. When waves go flat and you’re in Puerto or anywhere for that matter, you’re left with little choice but to drink heavily. What happened during the next seven nights is somewhat indescribable. Each night would take me at least two pages of detailed text. Every night consisted of mass consumption of tequila, booze, bammer and chica blanca. All these substances are fuel for the fire. The tourist nasties were somewhat terrified of us, yet it didn’t change the fact that they were starving for some cock. I remember a few years ago there wasn’t any tail running around and now it’s like ladies everywhere you turn your head. Every night blended together in my head. I do remember all of us taking over the dance floor multiple times in multiple places, where we gave birth to some of the most shocking dance moves known to man! I have a distorted memory of multiple vomits; a possible pants pissing incident and a few Familiar bottles being hucked against our concrete walls. Oh and a spitting in the face incident! Other then that it’s mush in my brains!

murdock-naked.JPEGThere was some talk about a new swell that was supposed to be hitting in a couple of days. It looked like there would be size but nothing real big. In the mean time the booze and lurking would continue. The daily routine consisted of recovering from the night before, breakfast at our local restaurant Mangos, a midday training sesh followed by a Familiar which would stir up talk of the night life agenda. There are some photos of the nightlife that will give you a small sample of what happened.

cale-ws-snap.JPEGThere is a story popping in to my head that is too fucking weird to not share it with the public. Our buddy Big Joe introduced us to this French guy one night when we were getting hammered in our bungalow. The guy seemed chill and we offered him some pugs of tequila, which he didn’t hesitate to take. The Frenchman was getting really tipsy so we offered him some chica blanca to calm him down. The Frenchy disappeared before we hit the nightlife. Two days later while we were grubbing at a little restaurant on the beach, the Frenchman saw us eating and came over to post up at our table. He claimed that he was hungover for two days after we forced tequila down his throat. He started asking us about the waves up in Cali and then out of nowhere the subject took a radical change. Old Frenchy was asking us if we had ever heard of the term “gangbang”. With his dirty French accent it sounded like “gongbong”. It didn’t stop with the gangbang. He went off about how he would tag team girls with his dirty French fellows. We asked him if he straps up when he jumps on these sexual choo-choo trains and he replied casually by telling us that VD’s have only been around for “a couple years”. He also described something that he referred to as “hot piss” which apparently he had and was quite proud of it. At this time Adam started chocking on his pasta, and I got a sick feeling in my stomach that ruined my appetite. Everybody was blown away by the Frenchman’s dinner conversation. We later discovered that the Frenchman had knocked up some Mexican local and was planning on skipping the country without telling the chick!

meat.JPEGI was still in shock over the fact that there were so many nasties running around. There were no confirmed takedowns, a lot of face swallowing but no real penetration! I think scoring with a chick down in Mexico is really rolling the dice. Every other chick I saw had some sort of sore or abrasion on her lip! When you’re all fucked up and it’s dark out it’s hard to even see one of these chanks! The real question is where the fuck are the barrels at? I talked to some of the locals who claimed this was one of the longest flat spells that they’d seen in years. The crew started running low on funds because of our excessive intake of everything! The bartering and trading started to go into full effect! I sold so much shit, from my bodyboard to my underwear! That’s the good thing about Mexico is that things are harder to get there, especially shit from the USA, so slanging your shit is always an option.

pas-lefthander4.JPEGThree more days in Puerto and I hadn’t seen a wave that was bigger than four foot. I woke up at dark the morning that the swell was supposed to hit! It had definitely picked up but the sandbars seemed to be fucked up. Usually Zicatela’s sandbars are groomed and split the swells into multiple peeks that explode over hundreds of yards of beach. This morning it seemed like the swell was walling up. Although I saw a couple good ones it seemed like the large percentage was closing out. A couple of hours went by and the offshores started to pick up and the barrels started to get round. El Jefe and myself grabbed our gear and lurked down to the crowded beach. I watched it while I stretched for about thirty minutes and noticed a heavy crowd mostly populated by aggressive Brazilian surfers who seemed to be jocking for every fucking wave. I noticed that there were some empty closeouts coming through which is good because when it comes down to it all you need is to see the view. I paddled out and joined the intense crowd, which seemed to resemble a minor to moderate North Shore crowd. A couple of mid-size sets rolled through which had a solid six guys scratching there very hardest to get a wave. I saw a solid set on the horizon and paddled for a right-hander I saw coming in. Everyone was a little too deep for this one including myself but I knew this wave was going to barrel top to bottom! I turned around at the last second and got eaten alive by this right-hander. I took a quality beating and then took two more when the next two waves barreled directly on top of me. I must say taking a good beating like that felt so good. Puerto is supposed to serve beatings like that regularly but I hadn’t felt one the whole trip, and it felt so fucking good! I surfed all day which was what I needed so bad after such a long day. I saw Jackson get some stand up freight train barrels. It doesn’t matter if its big or small Jackson will own it!

kellen-jam.JPEGThe swell had already started dropping by the mid afternoon so we knew that was it as far as big tubes. I was flying out solo the next day so I put in a good six hours in the water knowing that I would be staring at California crap for months straight. I was stoked it picked up and could only imagine what could and would have happened if we kept boozing it due to the lack of swell. I talked to the crew when I got back and they were claiming that the evening sesh the day I left was pretty fucking sick. Nothing super big but overhead, peaky, and super rampy. I was stoked they scored but bitter due to the fact I was on the plane while the crew was getting tubed!

murdock-farmacia.JPEGA month in mainland seems like a long time to most tourists, but for a bodyboarder or surfer who is forced to slide into a freezing wetsuit before every sesh a month is a good warm up period to prepare you for the months ahead. With property still costing as much as most new cars in the USA it’s a wonder that more outsiders haven’t been capitalizing on the beautiful coastal regions of Mexico. For someone residing in the USA, Mexico is your best bet to a cheap action packed mission. Whether it’s filthy TJ, Rosarito, Ensenada, or the calm waters inside Baja. All the way down to beautiful mainland Mexico has something to offer for almost anybody regardless if you even touch the ocean water. Our crew milked Mexico for everything they could get. The first time traveler Sandy Sphincter claimed that his life had been changed and when I heard that whether he was talking about for good or bad I was pumped to hear those words! I was also really pumped that everyone made it home alive, disease free, ECT. This is a trip that will be in my head until the day I die and I’m sure the rest of the crew could say the same. The pictures and FG’s will give you a small fix of our Mexico excursion. Sorry about this bullshit excuse for a story that took me entirely too long and check out our Mexico section in the upcoming Rookies video. ADIOS!

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Journal Entries

July 13 – Kellen
Waves have been real fun, at least head high everyday. We have 6 people and 3 mullets. A couple heavy nights of boozing, and the build up of tonight’s buzz on session has been just as gruelling as the arrival of the new gay ass iphone. We have like 8 Mexican friends going, 2 Americans, Edgar, El Jefe, and ourselves. ICE (editor’s note: ICE was an all-time club in Manzanillo with $10 all-you-can drink mayhem and the hottest isolated gene pool I have ever witnessed. RIP.) got shut down due to a drug bust but we’re going somewhere similar in Colima – 10 buck cover charge and you got an open bar. The trip has been taken over by everyone trying to attempt their most extreme Jeremy Wright impersonation as disgusting and as often as possible, you can only imagine that mixed with buzz on. We’re doing a lot of filming and shooting definitetly getting the job done there. I think our time in Colima is coming to an end and our journey towards Puerto begins tomorrow with a 25 hour bus ride.

July 14 – James
Waves have been pretty epic, Little Aadam has been ripping. He will have a full section after this trip. Our mission to the club last night was next level, words cannot describe it!!!!!!!!!!!!! We leave for Puerto early tomorrow morning. I’ll email you when I get settled in Puerto. Jackson’s presence is being felt to the next level and he’s been ripping this wave to shreds!

July 21 – James
What else can be said besides the Pismo virus has spread faster than a god damn California wild fire. The typical westerner`s stereotype of Mexico is full of crime, drugs and poverty, but for a pack of traveling wave riders it’s a true paradise. The Rookies crew is now rolling seven deep, consisting of Sloth, Killer, Cale, BGA, Sphincter and myself and most importantly “El Jefe”, Chad Jackson. We endured a 30 hour bus ride down the coast of Mexico. Our presence is being felt in Puerto with Zach falling in love with a hot Canadian chick. Kellen has been in an alcoholic haze the entire trip. BGA is macking more Euro Trash than Bono from U2. Upon Cale’s first night he yacked his brains out, giving us a doormat consisting of mezcal and cerveza. I have acquired the nickname ‘the Dance’ due to some tequilaed-out life changing dance moves. Sphincter has been lubing his lips up with more chap stick than even a Carmex factory could produce. And Chad Jackson (el jefe) is constantly keeping the fire fueled. Waves have been shockingly small with not one day being overhead out at Zicatela, but hopes are high for a new groundswell. With Puerto’s growth it’s only a matter of time before the party scene will be pushing that of Puerto Vallarta. Hopefully this swell hits cuz the Rookies crew is spending their life savings on booze and their livers are gaining more and more spots. Stay tuned for the continuing saga of Mexico.

July 23 – Adam
Pushing 3 weeks in Co now, these past 10 days with no swell have thrown us on a chica blanca tequila dancing bender. Clockwork Mexican nights have turned our usual surf session daze into purple haze with wheel barrel antics, nude sessions and even a 360 ass rotation by Kellen. Flooding ET’s digital cameras has been our new attraction in Puerto. Swell is finally on the rise and party mode is dwindling down for the next couple marathon sessions we all are fiending.

Central America 2007: Richerson

By Willie Richerson

July 11
Briggs and I are in Jaco, got here last night after 24 hours of travel. It was a bit taxing and we are recovering. His bag was lost so we are waiting for TACA to deliver it here. He is not stressing yet, which is lucky. The surf here is a bit meager, head high and mush burger. We are roughly planning to head to San Jose tomorrow and Nicaragua on the next bus. Costa is expensive and we want to get to the land of cheap and less touristy.

July 26
So I have three minutes to set this little message down at the cyber cafe in Managua. Got robbed for 38 bucks by a cab yesterday. I should have known better, got all my shit though. Got Popoyo pretty good Tuesday morning. Headed to Playa Asseradores Saturday and Pauline and I are meeting up tomorrow to check a spot close to Managua.

July 27
Check out the site hotelchancletas.com that is where I am headed today. I was supposed to go out to Pochomil with Pauline the boogie girl from Pismo but she sent me a message this morning backing out. Check out the video clips, the waves look sick at the beach break. I got my camera going too, although there is no zoom…Yeah it was flat here for a long time, pretty much the whole two weeks that Briggs was here. Oh there are ok shots of me on zoomnicaragua.com. Check the archives he has for the 19th and the 25th. The shot from the 25th was a fun overhead session, the last morning Briggs and I were in Popoyo. I will keep you up to abreast of my adventures.

August 3
I am currently in the town of Chinandega, the northern most pacific state and also supposedly the hottest. The sun set about an hour ago and I would say the temperature is around 82 degrees with high humidity. I came back to Chinandega after spending two nights further north in Jiquilillo, exploring an area a bit further off the beaten path. Jiquilillo was a quiet fishing village where they mainly go out in smaller boats at night using nets and lines to catch pargo and white fish. It is also an area where leatherback turtles nest, as is most of the Nicaraguan pacific coast. I stayed at a hostel setup by a cool guy from Maine, he started it after the NGO he worked for ran out of funds. He is headed back to the states after being here three straight years getting his hostel up and running. The atmosphere there was very relaxing and we had some nice times to talk about the country and its people. While there I read a book called “The Country Under My Skin” by Gioconda Belli. It was a great biography of her time as a Sandinista Rebel and then getting married to an American journalist. I finished it in two days! Thats just how good of a book it was for me. Highly recommended.

I am now headed back to Hotel Chancletas for a couple of days to explore an awesome wave that I surfed last week for five days. It is a wonderful beach that is uncrowded and has great waves for boogie boarding. Some of my best waves of the trip so far I had there. A couple I met last week from Miami invited me to head with them to Esteli on Saturday until Sunday or Monday. This is rainforest and coffee country in Nicaragua so I am excited to see areas which will have orchids and bromeliads and habitat similar to what I lived in in Ecuador. Also they make great cigars, so I may have to bring a couple back.

From there I am planning on heading to Peneloya and Leon, which is a bit to the south where there are supposed to be great waves (Peneloya) and awesome culture (Leon). It has been fun just cruising around by bus everywhere as I get to observe typical Nica culture as we drive on the bus, it really is how the average person here gets around. Not to mention it is very cheap.

I am camping some too, which with the afternoon and evening thunderstorms has been exciting to say the least. Luckily my tent has held up well so far.

My Spanish is working out and I have not had any problems other then a taxi driver taking some money from me. My bag was in the trunk and there was not much I could do but yell at him. A good lesson I just wish it wouldn’t have cost me the thirty six bucks it did!

Traveling with Eric was great for the first two weeks, we had a great time and found some good waves in Popoyo. On my own now I feel very reflective and relaxed just going with the flow.

I am going to try and contact a friend of mine who lives in Costa Rica, Rocio, whom I met at a meditation retreat in the states. If that works out we may meet up towards the end of my trip. I will keep you posted.

August 5
I am up in the mountains in coffee country, Esteli to be exact, with a cool couple from Florida that I met. I got some ear drops today as I got a bit of an ear infection working its way around my head. Hopefully it will clear up before I hit the next spot. This standup I met out at Aserradores showed me a picture of this sick reef left called San Diego, or Meatgrinder, that looks sick. I am going to try and figure out the bus route and charge there Monday. The pueblo of San Diego is not even on the map, so the adventure is on.

The first pic is some groms from Bluefields, a town on the Nicaraguan Carribbean coast, that I hung with in Managua. They were staying at the same hotel and their mom would leave at night to go to the movies, I think she was working a corner or something though. They were super rowdy kids and it was trippy to hear them speak the mestizo language, it was like sloppy English.

The second shot is at Playa Aserradores, a sick beach break that I surfed a bunch. This place overhead would be unbelievable, I only got it shoulder to head high but got probably thirty dk in and outs over five days of surfing.

The third shot is of some Florida groms that I taught the mini shaka to, spreading the mini is my life goal!

August 20
Flight tomorrow, back Wednesday! I am in Rivas now, got some sick sick surf the last three days. Surfed a wedge that was six to eight with some bombs that I sketched out on. Rode a long point left and also a rocky shallow left reef where I bounced off the bottom and slapped an urchin with my hand. Luckily I only have one spine stuck in my finger, not too bad. That same session a stand-up got stung by a man-o-war right next to me. Anyhow, home soon, it will be nice. Can´t wait to surf more though, I am stoked on riding more then ever. Give me cold water Cali, I am on it first thing!

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Mexico 2007: Zimmerman

By Alex Zimmerman

I had been checking flight prices for over two months when one night the price dropped significantly enough to make an instant purchase. A few late night calls to a few friends led to a long month of anticipation for the trip to follow.

What really made this trip so great were not the waves ridden (although they were damn good) or the amazing food, but the people who shared the experiences together. In late May Nick O, Johnny “snacks” G, Brett W, Andy B, myself, and a couple standups arrived at PXM to be greeted with the first afternoon of offshores in days. We met up with a few of the other guys who had already been there for a few days consisting of Matty M, Wladimir, David S, and Jordan H, also not to forget Quinn Q who had already been there for weeks prior. However, the head count was not quite complete. Josh S, and Sean H showed up a few days into the trip adding to the Californians. Our groups joined forces over the next couple weeks leading to countless barrels, plenty of beers, enough mota to kill a horse, and 5 shits a day each due to the healthy Puerto diet.

A typical day went as follows: wake up, surf, eat, relax, eat more, relax more, possibly surf again, eat more and drink your choice of Sol, Corona, or Pacifico. Although the days blended together as time went on, each day was different from the last. Sometimes we surfed a point instead of the beach break, sometimes we ate at Mangos instead of Cafecito , and sometimes we slept in the hammocks instead of lounge chairs. But, a few things remained constant, the heat and humidity never let up, the surf never dropped below head high, and the food was never bad.

Due to the abundance of free time out of the water we developed unique ways to keep ourselves occupied. In previous trips, games were invented such as fan ball (use your imagination), in this trip we invented the game of Puerto caps. Caps is basically played by throwing beer caps across a room from a choice of three distances with each distance representing a number of drinks to distribute if the shot is made or the number of drinks to consume if the shot is missed. Needless to say this game led to plenty of fun, and made the night fly by. In addition to Caps, daytime was passed by sleeping, walking through town, playing crazy eights, Egyptian rat slap, speed, and even connect the dots. Something different about this trip to Puerto was the relationship developed with the locals. Not only do many of the locals rip harder than many would expect, they also returned the respect we gave them. Becoming friends with many of the locals led us to better waves, rides to the beach and back, and inside information on where the best place is to score a filling cheap meal. One older Puerto resident, Crispin, even took us to his house and showed us around Puerto acting as our translator and guide.

Many people think that vacations are over on your journey home. We proved that very wrong. Our trip didn’t end until we split ways in LAX late at night, after a full afternoon of boozed up plane rides and stories shared and retold until landing back in the states.

I really cannot describe how great of an experience this trip was. If all the other guys had a tenth the amount of fun I did (which I’m sure they did) they would have had an amazing time. Leaving Puerto was not easy this year, as we all faced returning to reality whether it be work, school, or whatever else everybody does at home. Although this was everyone’s first trip together I’m sure it won’t be the last.

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