March 22nd, 2008
As we head into the end of March the decent late season that was unfolding has come to a halt. The past four or five days have been flat. This could be an indicator that Winter is over. There could be a couple little pulses next month but it’s looking like it will be pretty slow. You can actually tell that a lot of people have left the North Shore in the past two weeks which is nice to see, especially after the most crowded Winter ever had just taken place. On a sad note: A bodyboarder was killed at Pipe about a week ago. I think it was a local guy, kind of underground. I don’t know the exact details but I heard he got caught by the lip! That’s the thing about Pipe that is so gnarly, it will only be six feet and still claim your life. I’ve had a four or five footer land on me and drive me straight to the bottom, fins ripped off, leash completely stretched – I meean Fuck! Pipe constantly has a way of reminding you that it will turn your colon inside out. I’m going to do a recap write up on the 2007/2008 season. Should be up in a few days!
March 8th, 2008
Yes I know I have been lagging hard on the updates! The winter season is coming to an end but the waves are still pumping. There has been clean overhead waves for the last couple of weeks with an occasional bigger swell hitting! I was lucky enough to get a visit from some Pismo scum in February. Well actually Statom is far from scum but Kellen and Roy define the word scum. Had some good times with the Pismo posse! I’m sure you heard about my little run in with Johnny Law which was minor but a major buzz kill. Thanks to Statom and caby driver Lindsey my time in jail was limited to about ten hours! I haven’t been surfing too much due to an annoying knee injury that just won’t seem to get better. I came up on a automobile – 96 Toyota Corolla so that’s a big step up for North Shore life. Thing is sick, I bought it off some old Asian dude who kept it in mint condition! I’ll try to keep the updates coming a bit more often so keep checking the site. Statom is working on a little North Shore edit that will be up shortly so keep your eyes peeled! Mahalo. “Ho Lanis.” “Bodyboarder get out of the water.”
January 30th, 2008
Already a month into the new year and the North Shore continues to have a slow winter. There has been a few days but not the consistentsy that you come to expect during winter time on the North Shore. The best day of the season went down at Pipe a few weeks ago but it has been sleeping since then. Off the Wall has had a couple days of fun ramps and a few barrels but nothing to write home about. The Monster Pipe Contest is running as we speak in two foot crap so hopefully they can get that shit over with while it’s shitty! The bodyboarding contest is approaching in a few weeks and lets keep our fingers crossed that the waves will come. Other than that typical North Shore life has been in full swing. Lurking, training, and eating have consumed the waveless days with the occasional perv sesh from my porch. Oh ya congrats to my Pismo dkers who kept their belt in the Seaside Best in the West dk contest, hope all those guys recieved some ATP for their hard work! Let’s keep are fingers crossed that the Pipe contest will be bombing!
January 3rd, 2008
The New Year has come and the wave shortage on the North Shore continues. People have been claiming the slowest winter in twenty years. I have surfed Pipe like six times and that has been over the last two months. Fuck, all that can be hoped for is an epic late season. The only positive thing about the lack of waves is the fact that everyone has been leaving and if the waves ever do get good the crowd should be mellow. Aside from the small waves there is not too much going on except for an exceptionally high lurk status. Oh ya, Tyler Wiemann is in town and hopefully I have a chance to pound some booze with him or surf. My roommate just got a camera the other day so hopefully on the next post there will be some photos of something! Happy New Year and hopefully everyone back home survived the New Years festivities!
December 21st, 2007
The North Shore has been a bit slow for the last week. A little unusual for this time of the year to see flat surf for so long. The Pipe Masters has been running in 2-3 foot crap and the forecast is predicting more crap for the week to come. Passing time on the North Shore when it’s flat can be a hard thing to do. Shells and Bells are always an option when it’s flat but even that can get a bit old. Drinking mass amounts of Steinlager is about the only thing that doesn’t get old but can be hard on the pocket book. I received a brand new Toobs board that I’m dying to test out but there are no waves to do it with. My roommate is getting a sick camera for Christmas so hopefully I can get some pictures up to run with these updates. The only thing worthy to really talk about is Occy’s singing/dancing skills at the Lifeguard Party – pretty all time. Hopefully the next update will involve stories of Pipe barrels and some photos to back it up!
December 2nd, 2007
December time is in full bloom with back to back swells pounding the North Shore! The last week in November had some consistent swell accompanied by some quality weather. I was lucky enough to get a two day visit by long time DK charger Willie Richerson. I guess he hooked up a job at the airport so he can score tickets for super cheap. Willie showed up at a perfect time for the swell and weather. We scored some fun waves at a couple different spots. Just getting to watch Pipe when its good is worth coming to the North Shore, but getting to surf it is all-time. Long surf seshes were followed by a healthy dosage of Stan and Stienlager. It was sick to have one of my hommies from the 805 to share my daily surf/lurk seshes. Willie managed to score a rental car so we had some trany to get around. My normal means of transportation consist of my feet and a vert dog skate board that is my roommates’. It was nice to be able to make some vulgar Pismo comments and have them fully appreciated. I’m sure I will be seeing some more of Willie now that he has the hookup on tickets!
The weather is going to be bad for the next week which means alot more lurking and less surfing, maybe time to booze it up a bit! There’s a sick new skate park right behind Rock Piles that I might have to go check, do some slashes and maybe brake my neck! When the waves are shitty the time slows down but you just have to keep yourself busy. A lot of people make it seem like all there is to do on the North Shore is surf but there are many other activities that you can do when living somewhere with warm clear water. Still in shock over all the chicks lurking the beaches, bike trail and grocery store. I went to Haleiwa a few nights ago to hit the bar and there were so many breezys from all over the place. Hopefully the weather will calm down at the end of the week and let the trades return. I had a Jeremy Wright sighting, actually multiple sightings so that pretty much made my winter already! More to come next week and hopefully get some photos up!
November 16th, 2007
I’m currently residing on the North Shore of Oahu now. Coming from the ghetto of Grover to the mecca of bodyboarding and surfing is overwhelming. I have an upstairs loft that I call home that overlooks Backyards and Sunset. I have wanted to live in Hawaii ever since I started laying on a boogie and after many years of struggling with Cali’s harsh laws, inconsistent surf, and abundant supply of slammies and slammers, I’ve broke away to one of the sickest places on the planet.
Its been a real slow November as far as swell and the only thing keeping all the travelers sane is the abundant supply of nasties flocking the beach daily. I’m telling you there is so much ass on the North Shore it’s disturbing! The Banzaii hasn’t shown its true colors yet but I’m staying optimistic knowing that it is inevitable for it to get big. I’ve always been confined to a few mainstream spots every year I have come to Hawaii but lately I have been surfing a bunch of different spots that are relatively uncrowded. I’m going to make it a priority to invest in some camera gear so eventually I can flood the site with photos and document the North Shore Winter for everybody’s viewing enjoyment.
The Triple Crown of surfing is in full effect right now, kind of a scene but that’s part of Hawaii. Impressive to watch some of the pro stand-ups rip the world’s most famous waves. I watched 18-year-old Mason Ho put on a show at the Excel Sunset Pro, dominating surfers twice his age. None of the bodyboarders have really showed up yet which is weird for me to see the lineup boogie free. I’ve had a couple Hubb sightings at Off the Wall ripping the shit out of every wave no matter how big it is. Stay tuned to the Rookies site for many more North Shore updates to come including some pics to scope.