The Yeast Coast Infection

Plagued and infested with tourists, morons, douche-bags and an obvious lack of swell, summer in the Mid-Atlantic isn’t an ideal place for a bodyboarder. Any hint of a wave above two feet comes with the challenge of fighting an overwhelming crowd of inland donkeys struggling to climb aboard their fun-shape surfboards or hard-slick boogieboards. It can bring tears to the eyes of a wave-starved soul, watching his home breaks humiliated in such an unappreciative manner. Having only been able to pass the summer boogie-skimming through the crowded shorebreak and dawn patrolling for sub-par wind-swell, one thought keeps an east-coaster sane: Fall…

Hurricane swells, empty lineups, and relatively warm weather and water are the perfect medication for the summertime infection that so deeply pervades the Mid-Atlantic coast. The itchy, tourist fungus gets replaced by marathon sessions in hollow, chocolate barrels. Eyes locked on tropical depressions, storms, and hurricanes keep the local watermen free of responsibilities and commitments. Bill and Danny have already graced the early season with hurricane swell, but there are many months left and lots of high hopes for more tropical activity.

Infection

Perfection

Pure

Almost...

Paul Loukas

Delicious

The Wait is Over

Summertime Sizzle

By James Murdock

First off, I must apologize for the lag factor on the updates; I plan on getting back on track soon! I had knee surgery a few months ago and haven’t really had much to update, besides the daily lurk missions. I haven’t worked or boogied in almost three months. I have been rehabbing my knee and laying low waiting for the day I can put a fin on and get weird again. This is actually the longest I’ve gone without bodyboarding in my life so I’m kind of tripping, but staying positive and looking forward to wintertime. I was supposed to head to mainland Mexico for a couple months but had to abort due to the knee injury.

The southern hemi swells have been pumping over here! Saw the South Shore the biggest I’ve ever seen it, solid 6 foot plus. I made an appearance at the Sandy’s Beach Pro a few weeks ago. It was sick to watch the contest and see some of Hawaii’s best talent from all the islands. Hubb dominated hard but that’s a given, especially at Half Point – he gets really weird out there!!! Surprisingly the North Shore has even seen a couple head high summer swells. I was tripping watching 3-4 foot Sunset in the dead of July. The North Shore never ceases to amaze me with the abundance of swell. I’ve said this before but if you want to be able to bodyboard everyday of the year than Hawaii is one of the only places you can do it. Besides about 60-90 days it would be possible to surf year round on the North Shore alone! If there are any Cali kids who are ready to step it up and make a name for themselves then this is the place! The crowd is annoying at standout spots but if you’re willing to take some scuds on the head the waves are abundant. I know the right at Backyards will never get crowded when its solid six feet and I know Gas Chambers/Rocky Rights will never get crowded when its pushing 6-8 feet!

I’ve heard a lot of people claiming the El Nino deal for this winter. I’m a skeptic, but we are due for one and the satellite pictures of the warm water are looking legit. I’m sure everyone remembers the 98-99 El Nino action in Cali. Fuck there was tons of swell and tons of rain! I know one spot that will go richter if that’s the case and if you’re from the 805, especially the southern borders, then you know where I’m talking about. I also remember seeing good old “piss hole” Pismo Beach goin’ ricta and that’s something you don’t see too often. It was good for weeks, actually maybe even months. Oh yes my fondest moment of all was when Arroyo Grande High School was closed for a few days due too flooding! The waves where bombing too and no school! If I ever had a serious thought that there was a god it was on that day!

That’s about all I can ramble about for the time being. I promise all the super techy guru bodyboarders who live for new updates and media that I will be on them more than in the past! I should be back in the water in a little over a month so hopefully I can get some fresh shots for all your viewing eyes. Oh ya, one last thing, kind of stupid but if anyone saw my 25 question thing in the new Bodyboarder my nickname was supposed to say “Murder” but they put “Murph’ instead. I could careless about nicknames anyways but that’s what me and everyone else call Michael Murphy! Super stoked on the mag and everyone involved with helping it stay alive but just had to mention the nickname typo! Roger, Cheers, Aloha and a big phat mahalos to everyone who is reading this or spending money and time to help boost the struggling American bodyboard industry!!!!! Got some random pics below to keep the froth alive!
murdock1murdock2murdock3

Notes from the Rock ‘n Roll Expressway Volume IV

Asthmatic Giant! Tour Diary
By Darren Delmore

7/25/09 – The Hotel California, Leucadia, California
Hellmore brings his alibi to visit a haunted man in Northern San Diego County.

hotel-california

The driveway to the sober living farm snakes up a mysterious wooded hillside in rural Leucadia, California. I follow cardboard signs reading “50¢ Reed Avocados” while The Beatles’ Abbey Road plays in my Enterprise rental. I’d cut a privately booked Asthmatic Giant! performance short at Emilio Estevez’s Malibu estate to get here before visiting hours were over. Luckily, Heinous Chanus performed the last half of the three hour paid time slot under his new electronica moniker Skeletal Pelvis, with his girlfriend on the banjo and the chick from The Wine Loft on synth. It was good money.

Many of us have been in this position before: when a person close to you says “no” to life. When a close friend lands themselves in the hospital with slashed wrists or drug stuffed livers, crying out incomprehensible message board screen names and vineyard sites when the I.V. administered medication starts running low. Like many geniuses before him, it finally happened to Taras of Surfing photography fame. Last week he was found stumbling on Highway 246 in the Santa Rita Hills with a belly full of Herman Story “On the Road” Grenache and a good month’s supply of Soma and Darvocet.

I was the second guest Taras had requested a visit from at the farm. The first was Danny Bridge of La Jolla, whom I was told by the receptionist was never allowed on the grounds of the recovery center ever, ever again. “Piss on Daniel Bridge,” the old woman summed it up.

Back in December at Casa Dulce studios wherein Asthmatic Giant! was recording, there were no red flag indicators about Taras’ now notorious nervous breakdown. He had just come off his “Quality Suites Encounters 2008” World Tour as DJ Ukrainian Cellphone and had an eyebrow raising amount of cocaine and cash on him. Our triple LP self-titled release was two months late, thanks to a sex-related back injury on my part and a number of passionate and drug related outbursts by the front man of our group, including the night he broke my Gibson SG electric across my head over the debate of whether “Hossegor” would be a synth or guitar based jam (he obviously was leaning toward synth). With Taras in tow, we had to rush through “El Corazon de Pete” and “Ode to Poe”. The tracks were recorded live. He didn’t seem to mind the frantic pace, laughing a lot and drinking through a case of Hug’s 2007 Patchouli Clitoris Vineyard Pinot Noir, with The Ojai Vineyard Bien Nacido Chardonnay palate cleansers thrown in for good measure.

Months later during the final mixing of the vocals at Sunset Sound in Hollywood, H.C. and I exchanged a heavy look of profound realization at the soundboard over Taras’ contribution to our album. The wailing on these cuts sounded very much like a nerve-rattled man who’d seen the very head of Van Curaza pop up from his toilet at first whiz in the morning light, chewing him out for not cropping out the backdrop of Lighthouse in Surfing Magazine. Our record label famously canned “Ode to Poe” because it chose not to shell out the royalties to the dead dark poet, but “El Corazon de Pete” became the emotional crowd pleaser we continue to close sets with, thanks to looping his harried vocals in.

As I pass the Mission estate house with its red curled tile roof and the words “Hotel California” painted above the front entrance, I see bandanna wearing hippies to my left working an heirloom tomato field in tank tops. Large avocado trees form a wall around the parcel. An older woman wipes the sweat from her brow as she passes with a pail of water. I drive around the back, following the printed directions from the doctor’s receptionist. At the dead end I see two questionable cottages, and the one on the right is allegedly Taras’. With ease, I envision a crime scene here with an ambulance and paramedics pulling out a stretcher and a news van and police officers raging. In short, my good friend could well die here.

I get out of the rental and walk up, opening the waist high white picket gate. The skull of some animal is hanging like a wreath on the front door, a big black painting covers a smashed out front window, and broken camera equipment and annihilated surfboard parts are all over the place. I notice variously stained boxer brief’s scattered around the yellowed lawn. All is not right with the world, according to this scene.

After my all time most tentative knock, Taras opens the door shirtless, with white thermal pajama bottoms on and bandages up and down his arms. He’s grown a beard and his eyebrows are well connected with a touch of grey. He smiles and shakes my hand, and his face looks normal almost. I feel just like old times for a moment, until I remember what this place is and why I am here.

He leads me in across a floor covered in ants, old Wall Street Journals, cans of paint, Surfing Mags, and vinyl album covers of The Beatles and The Who. Suddenly out of a pile of Orange County Registers something squeals and hisses and rushes by. “What the hell was that thing?!” I ask him, lifting each foot up off the ground. “Oh you know that’s the possum,” he replies calmly. “That’s my friend, Darren.” Talk about uncomfortable silences.

The walls of the tiny room have become one large mural, with the faces of everyone Taras knows plus weird celebrities and obscure musicians on there in a crowd. “So man,” I start and fail. Speaking with a recently suicidal man is not exactly the easiest conversation to initiate. What do you say? “So you’re still uh… you’re still here.”

“No two faces are the same,” he says, repeating himself a handful of times as if I’m gone now, with his wild eyes on the mural. I locate me on there and I’m holding a bottle of Clos Pepe with wine stained lips and my glasses on. I’m next to Elliot Smith. Two red fountains of consumed wine are spraying out of both of my nipples onto the faces below me, which include Casey Koteen from Transworld and Jamie Brisick. A Jeff Tweedy album plays on the record player. I walk over into the kitchenette area and notice the Lex Records contract for U.K. vinyl reissues of DJ Momma’s Kitties on a small table in the kitchen unsigned.

“God they buttfuck me here, Darren,” he quickly whispers to me. “You have to get me out of here.” I turn around and he looks dead serious. His fists are clenched. “They force feed us space cakes at sunrise, and a half hour later they come in, put on Pink Floyd’s The Wall, and buttfuck everybody.”

“Whoa Taras, that sounds horrible.”

“They stuff organic vegetables up my hole at night sometimes.”

“Well at least they’re… you know… don’t have pesticides on ’em.”

“I wake up with ants in my anus.”

“Man, just-just settle down a sec. Wait, this is a uh… this is rehab, right? Like, come on, an accredited establishment with… with rules and a business license, isn’t it?” My first instinct is to rush to his aid, but I don’t entirely believe him.

“I have every ice cream on the market in my freezer,” he says, opening up the freezer and proving his point with hundreds of dollars worth of ice cream. The rest of the refrigerator is empty.

“Do you uh, do you really live with that possum? In here, man? They let you do that?”

There is a shift in the energy of the room then, and his face goes white and mortified. He clutches himself in a psychotic pose before wailing “Camel Caps Lock Faggot!!! Bandito Del Agua! I’m gonna buttfuck you Thisismyusername!” Two thick older men in blue doctor getups rush in and push me aside, grabbing Taras and rushing him into the back room. They restrain him on his hospital bed. I stand at the doorway and say “He’s-he’s all right fellas. He’s okay.”

“Visiting time is over!” the guy with the ponytail shouts at me.

“Beat it!” says the red haired freckly one.

“Buttfuck! Buttfuck!” Taras wails as they hold him down. “They’re gonna buttfuck me!”

“Give him an IV of the Romulan!” the ponytailed doc yells out, taking off his pants and grabbing a jar of lube. “Quick!”

“Buttfuck! No!”

“Shut it, artsy fartsy! You’ll be seein’ all them pretty colors you love seein’ so much in no time. Give it to him.”

A green liquid is injected into his left arm and suddenly his eyes look up to the ceiling and his body turns to jelly.

“Turn him over,” the red haired doctor says. “I got sloppy seconds last night.”

Speechless, I back out of the doorway. As I scramble with my keys to the rental car, I hear the wailing. It’s the same wailing made on “El Corazon de Pete” if you listen closely to it. It is in essence the heart of Pete, and that heart is blackened for now, and forever more.

hellmore update

franklindkroblevelt“So where do you see yourself in five years,” I asked an in-over-his-head Franklin D(K) Roblevelt on the phone some blustery April afternoon. The kid had fallen off as of late. Here he thought he was calling me up and clueing me into some springtime inside lefts to ride, but I knew this slurry tone. The tone that runs like a disease through any knee up rider around these parts. Stanley had gotten to this baby seal all right, and I shed a tear as I ended the call and thought of the days when I thought Frankie was different. When I believed Frankie stood a chance. Before all of this. Before he was red eyed and claiming a bloodline to Jack Lindholm when I wasn’t around. Before photoshopping himself onto heavy North Shore sections and posting the fraudulent pics up around Pismo pizzerias and The Scoop. He was doomed. As doomed as Wonka, Red Dog, Louie and me before him. Our sciatic nerves are rousted, our midlife crises came early, and we’re broke and loveless. We are in our thirties and renting. We’re rattled. We might not have Halloween pumpkins and animal skulls in our front yards still, but we need something strong to make it through the night. I was never breastfed.

* * *

As mentioned in the swiftly flagged and removed Los Angeles Volume 4 of the Asthmatic Giant! tour diary on RookiesUSA, the seminal ambient folk sensation has been working on their full length debut LP “Red Dog Confessional”. With riveting synth’d out originals such as “Slammies on my Nipps”, “Red Headed Stepchild Blues”, “Gamer Thug”, and “Talkin’ PFC Blues” the Giant! has summoned the lyrical spirit of Roldy with impeccable honesty and plenty of soul on these new oxy friendly tracks. Check www.myspace.com/asthmaticgiant for release dates.

Murdock North Shore Update #3

Well folks, not much has changed since Statom’s departure! Strong NE winds continue to dominate the weather pattern with no NW swell in the water to speak of. Although the strong trade winds and wind swell is quite annoying, the waves are still in abundance at the right spots! I’ve had a couple sick sessions at Log Cabins with no more than two or three guys out. I’ll give you a little break down of the action!

The first day I surfed out there was a solid 6-8 foot with an occasional wash through set. I had to paddle out at Keiki pretty much because the paddle was next level! I only scrapped two waves; the first was cat shit but the second one was a drainer. It barreled so hard almost like a little Pipe bowl! My buddy Tyler had his video camera and was able to get the wave. Once we get a firewire I’ll post some frames of it! I heard from one of my friends that GT made an appearance after I went in. Tamega’s all about big sketchy waves, he lives for that shit!

Day two was a bit smaller but much cleaner, 4-6 foot draining with three guys out. Right as I walked up the trail I saw no other than GT pull into a nugget! I surfed for a few hours and was able to scrap a handful of fun waves! Anna was posted up on the beach providing the photo support, so check out a couple of her top notch pics that I posted below!

As The NE winds and NNE swell continue to dominate the swell and wind pattern, relief is lurking on the horizon! Caldwell’s claiming a solid 6-8 foot swell for the beginning of this week. Statom was able to accumulate a grip of footy as well as pics during his two-week campaign on the Rock that will be leaking their way through the site over the next few months so stay tuned for the action.

A couple last words: congrats to Hardy for the W. I think out of any Australian who hasn’t won Pipe, he was the most worthy! Go Hardballs! Word on the street is that Kellen has invested some serious cash on a super high tech next level guru style video camera! We plan on spending a few months in Mainland this summer so expect some weirdness to unfold! That’s a wrap folks, much more to come!!!!

Mahalo,
Murdock