By James Murdock
There was a nice little combo swell heading our way for the weekend. Mixed swells are actually when we get some of the better waves on our coast. It gives some of the beachbreaks a chance to get good, which is very rare for Central Cali. I gave Willie a call to inform him that it could be worth going on a mission for some waves. Willie was down and happens to have a real nice car that is a station wagon, which means we could bring a little crew. A dawn patrol mission was mandatory, especially for our wind-infested coastline. A special appearance would be made by longtime crewmember Glynn Davis, who had currently been retired for ten years but was feeling a comeback.
Willie showed up at my house at the crack of dawn, actually it was like an hour before any sort of crack! Willie seemed so awake and ready as if he hadn’t slept a wink. It turned out that he had a big night/morning, which involved a nice one on one meeting with chica blanca! Anyways Willie, Sloth, Glynn, and myself headed for Roldan’s house for the pickup. Surprisingly Roldy was ready to go, waiting out in front of his house like a nerd trying to catch the bus on the first day of school! Our crew was now fully assembled and on the way up north to go check a couple of spots.
About forty-five minutes into the drive we started to encounter some mild drizzling, which looked like it only got worse the farther north we went. By the time we showed up at this one beachy, which was our first option, there was a full on rain coming down which sucked for footy and photos but kicked up some south winds that were straight offshore. The waves looked super fun even though it was raining pretty hard. Cale, Willie, Glynn and myself were on it while Roldy sat in the car lagging as usual. While I was stretching on the beach I saw Cale’s first two waves which happened to be two of the sickest backside barrels I’d ever seen and on top of that I saw Willie’s first wave which was a heavy DK tube that kept growing as it barreled. The first three waves that were ridden were perfect Dk barrels. I almost hyperventilated as I was paddling out cuz Willie and Cale’s barrels got me so fucking amped. Everyone got at least a couple good ones. I saw Glynn boost a late invert on one of the heaviest sections I saw all day, he is a fucking savage in and out of the water. The winds stayed good all day and we surfed our brains out not knowing when the next time we’ll get waves will be. The most shocking thing of the day was Roldy sitting in the car all day watching his friends trading off sick waves for six hours, possible retirement for Roldy!
The next day was cranking again, a little smaller but still sick as fuck. There was a fat crew on day two. The boogies were owning the spot, which is primarily a boogie wave. Alex Statom was able to flee his busy city life for some Central Cal gems. He got the ramp of the day launching a huge invert into the flats. Even Louie made an appearance. It turned into another marathon session with Cale shooting photos of the session. It’s always a cool thing to see a bunch of bodyboarders out at a spot that is really good and only see a couple of surfers out – all of whom didn’t surf the good peak. The wave we surfed gets sick off south swells but come wintertime when we get some straight west swell it will get pretty serious. Peace in the Middle East until the crew embarks upon another mini road trip. I almost forgot, Cale rolled up every morning with a solid supply of Budweiser!