Giving Thanks

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We had to make the annual trek back to the 805 for Thanksgiving to kick off the holiday season with a little turkey, stuffing, and dropknee action. But with Louie’s recent move to the North Shore, Chaney’s move to Denmark, Adam still in Chile, Willie in Indo, and Darren still holed up in NorCal, a sponger has become more and more difficult to find in these parts. Roldan answered the call though from his batcave behind the soda bar, sounding the horn for Cale and Frank and a visiting Adam Dumas. Here’s some frames from what transpired. Just a small sample of what will go down during our annual holiday hangover feature later this month between Christmas and the New Year. Also keep your eyes peeled for a full on North Shore assault in February that should be well documented here. Until then Murdock, Louie, and new contributor James Dawson will fill this space with plenty of goodies.

Roldan’s been sipping Red Dog 40’s for 2 months straight in preparation for his North Shore mission in February.

Cale beating the shit out of a section the day before departing for a month up north crab fishing. Glad we caught him.

LGF = Long Gay Floater. Brett does these super long and super gay all the time.

Baby Seal has big shoes to fill with the dwindling crew but by the looks of things is stepping up.

Brett saved a life this day avoiding a near rock avalanche fatality.

Du Mas Mich getting it done backside. We will be taking you up on that acai bowl offer at Liquid Du Mas Mich.

Brett came in an hour late to work for this session. He still has his job though so that’s ok.

Wish we could film KILLMORE more cuz he does stuff like this all the time.

Camel decided to film this session after eating too many fucking pancakes at breakfast. At least Brett made it worthwhile.

We stole this baby seal from Pismo one day and taught him how to boogieboard. Some people call him Frank.

If you ever see Brett, ask him how he got the nickname Stinky Pinky. It was certainly not due to lippers like this.

backfliip!!

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Alright going to try to figure out how to put up some links for Dawsons g videos he has been pumping!! Ok cant figure it out so will throw something up!!

dugs stuff!!!!!


koa!!!!!!


more koa!!!!!


da house!!!!!!


pipe photo riedel!!!!


vert


hectic shit! photo riedel!!!


roldy getting sexy!! Photo Chris Burkard!!!!


alex leon getting the shot!!!!


da lizard photo Leo!!!

DA ROCK!

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Massive lag on my part for a hawaii update!!! Updates are going to be in full force now especially with the arrival of Louie! Waves have been below average for the early season but having grown up in California I really cant complain! Plenty of small to moderate swells have been keeping us busy. Dawson has been letting me take his housing out and the goods have been coming! Dawson Zimbra and my self have been switching of on the video support scoring some sick little clips which dawson has been constructing some lagit little edits. i have alot more tex and media to throw up on the blog but will keep this one short and sweet. Aloha!!

Louie enjoying his first days on the rock!!!


Quick little empty I shot

johnny c amping out even with out his boogie!


Flynn locked in his backyard!


Team work!! Dawson on da knee and me behind da lends


Trevor Kam charging shorey last season!!! Photo Riedel


Zimbradda boosting. Photo Riedel

Early Season Roundup

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Last week’s Encanto Pro set the table for a grand finale in the Canaries. After the dust settles at Fronton next month the new 2011 champ will be unveiled. Will Hubbard get title number 3 on the heels of wins at Pipe and Puerto? Will PLC get his virgin title at 21 along with a modeling contract? Will Hardy squeeze out the impossible and cement his legendary status? All things will be decided on Spanish soil, where expectations are high for a thrilling finish at one of the best bodyboarding waves on the planet. And what a historic tour its been so far, the last comp at Puerto Rico never letting up on the drama, right on down to PLC’s last second double flip heroics over Dubb. Where the ASP has been more concerned with exposure at larger markets and its image with recent drug implications of late, the IBA has made the bodyboarding community proud by simply promoting the sport in high performance waves. Its an exciting time to be a bodyboarder. Encanto Pro media:

Final Day Highlights (check their entire YouTube Channel for more goods)

Photo Gallery
Current Ratings

Back along the Central Coast, Louie is getting ready to make the move over to the North Shore this week to join Murdock in the tropics indefinitely. Expect plenty of media as they join forces with the local Rocky Point sponge crew. Check Dawson’s first early season edit here. Check back here for all the latest and greatest happenings from this crew. Meanwhile, Cale sent us this little sequence in preparation for the coming winter along the Central Coast.

Best of the Web:
VIDEO: We had interviewed Tim Hamilton a couple years back about their upcoming Boogie 9 flick. It finally came to life on vimeo. Check the rest of their vids on the channel too for a fresh mix of random footage.
MAG: Surge Version 3.0 unleashes with plenty of GT, Dubb, and Hawaii action.
BLOG: LeBoogie has been owning it lately with their power rankings being a favorite regular entry.

Atacamenian Hangover

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After 3 months of Pachamama-guru gardening in the Andes, I was in dire need of salt water, coastal air and moving water. I set out on a 20-hour bus ride through Martian-like terrain only to arrive at an Atacamenian oasis filled with coastal pampas, lively atmosphere, colorful South American houses and an abundance of reefs.

On the first morning I woke up before first light to check the waves. I found myself in front of empty, overhead sets coming in under the overcast dawn. I suited-up in minutes and paddled out with two other locals. We traded off quick, heavy barrels with hoots and Castellano conversation.  After a while the crowd filled in and I headed in for some toasted flour porridge. I caught on quick to the locals surf schedule and un-crowded waves were bountiful. Dawn patrol sessions, mid morning breakfast followed by a mid-day session, siesta and concluding the day with an evening session quickly became my soul nourishment.

On the 3rd morning, the routine and waves were still holding strong. I suited up and paddled out alone admiring empty-emerald-overhead-right-hand barrels. I waited for a set and caught my first wave. I drove down the line, pulled in, didn’t come out and went straight to the bottom. A flash of light illuminated the ocean green in front of my eyes. I surfaced dazed, confused and with open gash near my temple.

Makeshift duct tape bandages were applied but they only lead to torn-out hair and a delayed bloody-faced taxi ride to the ER. I keenly observed the ikikeñan nurses in hope for more than just a remedy, and as my name was called low and behold the only grey haired, nearly blind surgeon opened the door for me. I’m not sure if it was the lack of eye contact, sparse mental/physical condition questioning, or simply the hairy bloodstained sheets that had me second guessing lying under the lamp. Never the less, the Doc. left me with 5 stitches and a prescription for 1 week of no surfing.

The following days were filled with frustration, relaxation and reflection. It was agony not being able to surf while watching the waves fill in. I quickly became the regular gringo at the bar de zumo. Round after round of zanahoria and naranja kept me hydrated and nourished. Argentinean bodyboarders kept my mind occupied with excessive consumption of yerba Maté, yerba buena and boogie vids. Their hospitality and lifestyle reconnected me with the sport of bodyboarding, and above all why and how I began to travel. It was humbling and motivating to meet more kids in search for waves, travels, adventure, and most importantly not sweating over the bullshit of social pressure and pursuing their own path in life. Although my latest travels haven’t been a hundred percent wave driven, bodyboarding is what sparked my first travels. It has been with me on every trip and it will continue to be so on those to come.

Departing the oasis in return to the farm was an endless filmstrip of arid earth and uncharted coast with tons of potential for waves. Injuring myself due to excitement, lack of local knowledge (being it was low tide) or simply rusty bodyboarding skills was frustrating. However it is the risk when one searches for thrill and is part of the adventure.  I’ve got just under three months left of working la Pachamama until I return home and if I don’t return to the Martian oasis, at least I have a souvenir that I’ll never loose. Good times in South America!